However, installing such devices on non-threaded barrels is relatively different. Most people rely on gunsmith professionals to do this task. But why should you spend more money on something that you could do?
You can use the floor or a long table as long as you clear it out. Do not start attaching your suppressor unless you have unloaded your weapon, as it can jeopardize your safety and the product.
To unload your weapon, put it on your working table or workspace. Next, take out the ammunition one by one. Now, you have successfully unloaded your gun.
After successfully unloading your weapon, the next step would be disassembling it. Some weapons or firearm products come with a manual from their manufacturers. However, in case you lost your manual, you can still find an uploaded manual online for the instructions. Remember to open the muzzle before putting it on the bench vise, which attaches directly to a workbench to hold the workpiece during operations.
Since you are using a non-threaded barrel, you will need an adapter to lock the suppressor in place. We suggest using a non-threaded adapter for your non-threaded barrel. However, you may also use taper pins, barrel bushing, or locking pins to secure your muzzle devices or any non-threaded barrel suppressors.
To do this, you must take the spring and slider parts out from your gun. Suppressors have the additional benefit of reducing the muzzle flash as well. Instead, it suppresses the noise significantly by capturing and slowly releasing the rapidly expanding gases used to propel a bullet out of the gun barrel.
Suppressors come in two types of form factors, direct thread and quick attach, which provide different characteristics and capabilities for the shooter. The most commonly used type of sound suppressors is the direct thread suppressor. It is the simplest form of a mounting system where you only require a weapon that has a threaded barrel.
The suppressor can be easily installed by screwing it directly into the threaded barrel. These types of suppressors come in two sub-types as well, locking and non-locking. Both of these types are installed in similar ways. Quick attach suppressors require an additional accessory, such as a muzzle brake or flash hider, in order to mount onto the weapon.
To use this type of suppressor, you need to thread your brake or hider onto the barrel of your gun, after which you can mount the quick attach onto the muzzle device. The only difference between locking and non-locking quick-attaches is the fact that non-locking means, as the name would suggest, they do not have any locking mechanism. Back in , an American inventor by the name of Hiram Percy Maxim created the first working suppressor, which was available for commercial sale.
Firearm innovation ran through his blood with his father, Sir Hiram Stevens Maxim, having invented the first portable version of a fully automatic machine gun.
That company is still around today as a leading manufacturer of control silencers for exhaust, emissions, and more. The tax remains in effect to this day. As innovations in technology increased, so did the market for improved gun suppressors. When firing a gun, the gunpowder in the bullet casing ignites, creating an immense amount of pressure. This pressure propels the bullet down the barrel of the gun, pushing the round at incredible speeds. When the bullet exits the barrel, the pressure is released and an extremely loud noise is produced.
And unlike the lottery, where guessing a set of numbers just risks losing the dollar you put on the counter, guessing wrong about the alignment of your suppressor on a given rifle risks losing you the cost of your suppressor, the tax you paid, and the time spent waiting for it.
If you make a mistake mounting your suppressor, you may not get a second chance. Putting the right one on incorrectly, or putting the wrong one on an incompatible rifle, will lead to a busted suppressor, perhaps a broken rifle, and maybe even injuries to you or bystanders. In the case of an AR, this usually means there is a flash hider already there. So, remove the flash hider. If it is secured with a thread-locking compound, this may require some wrenching, maybe even an application of heat from a propane torch.
It might be a good idea at this point to recommend you use another Geissele product, their reaction rod. This is a steel bar that engages the locking lug slots in your barrel extension. You use this to put the torque of wrenching off the flash hider into the barrel extension and reaction rod. Otherwise, the little pin in its slot in the upper receiver takes the gaff.
Forcing off a flash hider, you can damage the slot and make your rifle less accurate. You do not want the old washers, and you must not use them, either the old ones or new ones. This is an important detail that will hold for all suppressor mounting applications: do not ever use the standard washers that come with, or are used with, flash hiders, muzzle brakes or other doodads on the muzzle. None of them.
If you ever do have need of some sort of shim or spacer to get a mount, device or other suppressor gizmo properly timed on the muzzle, you should only use whatever washers that manufacturer supplied. They will be guaranteed flat, something other washers cannot be. With the flash hider off, clean the threads.
You can brush them with a nylon bristle cleaning brush, you can use a wire brush, you can even get out a dental pick and pry the residues out of the threads. But get them clean. It would not be beyond reason, if you have one available, to use a tapping die to chase the threads and make sure they are clean. Clean all the gunk off of that surface, also. Then insert your Geissele alignment rod. What is it, really? This part applies to all suppressor mounting systems and applications. Pay attention, the suppressor you bust may be your own.
And probably will be, when the owner insists you pay for its replacement. If it is Fail, or Epic Fail, then you cannot use your suppressor on that rifle. You may only have the one rifle and the one suppressor. I feel for you, but having only one of each is not going to change the results or the future. If you mount that suppressor on that rifle, there will be an unpleasant surprise, and very soon. A inch rifle can be trimmed back an inch, re-threaded, and be a one-off rifle.
If it is off-center but not touching, then you have to decide how much risk you are willing to take. A very slightly off-center but not touching situation is no big deal.
But if it is off-center and not touching but almost touching, then the risk increases. One thing you can try here is remove the suppressor, re-clean the threads and try again. Also, you can use a torque wrench or an open-end wrench and an educated arm to tighten the suppressor to its correct working torque. You might get lucky. You might find that there was some un-noticed bit of grit or left-behind Loctite that caused your suppressor to tilt slightly.
Also, you might find that the bearing shoulder has a slight high point, and when you tighten the suppressor it evens out, straightens up, and your suppressor now passes the test.
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